The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities stay greener and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then add a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on